A Fishing Village Turned Resort Town Is One Of The Italian Riviera's Best Stretches Of Coast

The sun-blessed Italian Riviera, which runs from the French border to Tuscany, has lured artists, writers, and other creatives to its legendary coast for centuries. While Portofino has emerged as the coastline's most glamorous enclave and the five villages of Cinque Terre the most crowded, Santa Margherita Ligure, an equally beautiful and authentic port on the Gulf of Tigullio, has remained blissfully underrated. Here, at the base of a lushly forested hillside, cobblestone streets are lined with Baroque architecture, including grand churches and historic villas, and antique boats bob in the idyllic harbor. 

This charming commune, which was once a quiet fishing village, blossomed during the postwar era into a popular destination for sun-seeking travelers who came to reside in candy-colored villas, bask on coveted beaches, and dine at quaint cafes. Although more affordable than neighboring Portofino, and less touristed than Cinque Terre, Santa Margherita Ligure still sees a sizable influx of visitors come summer. 

According to Rick Steves, the best time to travel to Italy is the spring, early summer, and fall for the best weather and fewest crowds. The Italian Riviera enjoys over 300 days of sunshine per year so the temperatures are consistently warm. The nearest airport is the Genova City Airport, which is a 35-minute drive away, and is connected by direct flights to most European capitals. Otherwise, Milan, considered the most underrated city in Italy, can be reached in 2 hours by car. 

Santa Margherita Ligure's pleasures range from touring fascinating historic sites to more leisurely pursuits, like cruising the coast to discover hidden beaches. To get a lay of the land, visit Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure, a 16th-century fortress to defend against pirates, and the Basilica di Santa Margherita, a grand Baroque masterpiece built in the 17th century. Around the corner from the fortress is the elegant Villa Durazzo, a crimson-colored mansion housing period furniture and important Italian paintings. The gracious home is surrounded by elegant gardens and parklands with balustraded balconies overlooking the sea. Villa Durazzo is open daily with varying hours depending on the season. The villa costs €5.50 per adult to enter, while the grounds are free to access.

While Santa Margherita Ligure boasts a wide beachfront dotted with beach clubs right in town, you can venture further afield to avoid the crowds at Italy's most underrated beaches. One example is San Fruttuoso, a stunning turquoise cove presided over by a 14th-century monastery in the background, that's only accessible by boat or a lengthy hike. Another picture-perfect beach that's less than a 10-minute drive from Santa Margherita Ligure is Paraggi Beach (pictured), a gorgeous sandy stretch lapped by translucent waters.

Embrace the la dolce vita lifestyle at Santa Margherita Ligure's hotels, from Belle Epoque icons to design-minded hideaways. You will be transported to another era at the Grand Hotel Miramare, which first opened in 1903 and has welcomed a glittering array of celebrities throughout the 20th century. Today, the grande dame hotel showcases historic interiors dotted with a contemporary art collection throughout the sprawling beachfront property. The 72 rooms and suites promise magnificent sea views, the Vistamare restaurant is celebrated for its elevated Ligurian cuisine, and the beautifully landscaped grounds shelter a massive freeform swimming pool overlooking the sea. "The Grand Hotel Miramare is indeed worthy of its name — a place that delights the senses with an anachronistic perfection seemingly plucked from a 1950s movie," raved a Tripadvisor reviewer. Rates here start at $567 per night.

For a boutique stay tucked into town a few blocks from the beach, book a room at Hotel Blu di Te, which boasts chic interiors, sumptuous breakfasts, and a rooftop pool. Offering just 20 rooms, this hotel is an intimate retreat adorned with vintage Italian and Scandinavian furniture (which can be purchased), as well as a teak boat for cruises along the scenic coast. Guests adore the spacious accommodations, lovely staff, and abundant breakfast buffet, according to Tripadvisor reviews. Rooms here start at $186 per night.