Hidden Within Los Glaciares National Park Is A Town Called Patagonia's 'Trekking Capital'
At the foot of the gargantuan Mount Fitz Roy, trekking trails sprout from the small town of El Chaltén, which is the most popular base for visitors to Los Glaciares National Park. Exemplifying the rough and ready reputation of the vast Patagonian plains, locals ride past small, wood-paneled buildings on horseback, perpetually treated to mountain views on the horizon. Ramble past vertiginous peaks, crumbling glaciers, turquoise alpine lakes, and hidden waterfalls before rewarding yourself with a hearty Argentinian dining experience or rejuvenating spa treatment in the tourist-friendly town.
To reach the isolated El Chaltén, fly just over three hours from wildly underrated Buenos Aires (known as the Europe of South America) to the Patagonian outpost of El Calafate, then drive another three hours to El Chaltén. It's advisable to travel during the summer months, between December and March. For fewer crowds but still temperate climes, travel during the shoulder seasons in late October through November or March through early April. Traveling in the fall season, you'll also be treated to red blushing leaves that coat the trails and the forested crag.
The best Patagonian hiking trails from El Chaltén
As the wind whips around glacier-slicked mountains and secluded alpine lakes, you can explore the many trails around El Chaltén. Ranging from easy one-hour jaunts to grueling four-day backpacking adventures, there are plenty of treks to choose from (just make sure to familiarize yourself with safety tips before your first solo hike). The 1.2-mile hike to Mirador Cascada Margarita gives you a view of the soaring Cerro Torre, or you can tack on a couple of extra miles and visit Mirador Los Cóndores for 360-degree views of the Fitz Roy and Adela Massif.
Those looking to push themselves without committing to several days strapped to a backpack should make for Laguna Torre. The 11.8-mile trek takes around six hours, trailing alongside the Fitz Roy River. With only two steep patches, it's a mostly steady route with consistent views of the towering Cerro Torre, leading to mammoth icebergs drifting in a glacier lake.
For full immersion in the Patagonian wild, pack plenty of supplies and set out towards Piedra del Fraile. Camp overnight in the midst of the mountains and wake up to views of the stretching mountain ranges that make up Los Glaciares National Park. The path is popular and well-maintained, with plenty of campsites to choose from (although they need to be reserved in advance). Serious and experienced hikers can cross traverses and crags for the best views of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field on the intrepid four-day Cerro Huemul Loop.
Where to eat, drink, and sleep in El Chaltén
Despite its size, El Chaltén's sleepy streets come with world-class accommodation and dining options. Wake up to sweeping views of the valleys and peaks that encircle the village at Los Cerros del Chaltén Boutique Hotel. The cozy, wood-paneled luxury hotel comes with hot tubs for soaking away the hiking pains. Alternatively, stay close to the Fitz Roy trailhead for quick access to the rejuvenating spa and sumptuous breakfast at Destino Sur Hotel and Spa.
While Patagonia is one of the most expensive regions of the country, Argentina is one of the best budget-friendly destinations where the U.S. dollar goes the furthest. Grab an affordable empanada at Rotiseria Sueño del Sur, and be sure not to burn your mouth on the steaming meat juices baked inside. For a heartier pre-hike meal, grab a traditional choripán or stacked steak sandwich from La Lomiteria El Chaltén. Alternatively, indulge in a quintessentially Argentinian barbecue experience at La Oveja Negra. With sheep wool slung over the chairs, hulking steaks, and smoked cuts of meats stacked on plates, this restaurant embodies the Patagonian aesthetic. Pair your favorite cut with a glass of world-renowned Argentinian red wine.