Enjoy Coastal Bliss Without Crowds At This Georgia Town Called The Gateway To Cumberland Island
If you're headed to the East Coast for a taste of the salty lifestyle, it's easy to bypass Georgia. The state isn't known for its beaches, although it has some spectacular ones. Interstate 95 takes you through the swampy coastal marshlands, but few people explore beyond the popular stops of Savannah and Brunswick. So, it's time to get off the beaten track and wander through some of the state's more hidden gems.
The town of St. Marys, Georgia, lies on a bend of the St. Marys River. The river makes the state line, so you're a stone's throw away from Florida — if you've got a really good pitcher's arm. The river is wide and surrounded by miles of tidal saltwater marshes.
The town bills itself as the Gateway to Cumberland Island, known for its hiking and pristine beaches. Just a 45-minute ferry ride downriver, Cumberland is a national seashore with wild horses and ruins of mansions, too. But today, let's pause in town and explore St. Marys, a quiet seaside retreat where towering live oaks dangle with Spanish moss and fish jump endlessly in the tranquil river.
Come and sit a spell in St. Marys
The town's location on the shores of the St. Marys River has marked its history. The location has been of strategic importance for wartime and industry. In the past, the waterfront was lined with sawmills, canneries, and warehouses for exporting tobacco and cotton grown nearby. But tourism is the primary industry today. Walking around town, you'll see plenty of beautiful 19th-century buildings. This town is still very much connected to the river and sea, where shrimp boats ply the water, and fishing is a popular local pastime.
The small, compact town is laid out on the waterfront like the old shipping and fishing village it is. The centerpiece is the Howard Gilman Memorial Waterfront Park, the perfect place to stroll, watch the sunset over the river, and sit a spell on the swinging park benches. The park also has a small snack bar that rents kayaks and a boat ramp if you bring your own vessel. Along the waterfront, you'll also find several restaurants, the Cumberland Island ferry dock, and a small market and gift shop.
A Spanish cannon marks the end of Osborne Street, the main drag in St Marys. Amble this way, and you'll come upon a few more restaurants, the Cumberland Island Museum, and the town's visitors center. Crooked River State Park is located north of town on the East River. The 500-acre park has 11 rental cottages, 63 campsites, picnic shelters, a boat ramp, and a lovely beach area. It's the perfect spot to go for a quick hike, do a little birding or fishing, or even play a round or two of miniature golf.
Planning a river getaway in St. Marys
Once you're in town, you'll find welcoming small inns that put you within walking distance of the waterfront and all the beauty the town offers. The Spencer House Inn offers 14 luxuriously appointed rooms, peach iced tea, and sweet treats. Emma's Cottage gets top marks from guests as a comfortable, family-run bed and breakfast right in town, and the Riverview Hotel has 18 rooms in a historic building right across from the ferry docks.
Dining choices include the Riverside Cafe, Locals Dockside, and Seagles, all right along the waterfront. A little farther up Osborne Avenue, check out Cedar Oak Cafe for flavorful treats. Besides fishing, kayaking, or going out on the boat, there are also fun attractions like the Georgia Train ride and St. Marys Little Theater. And be sure to check out the St. Marys calendar, with events throughout the year like the annual Seafood Festival in early October.
A stone's throw from popular destinations like Amelia Island and Jekyll Island's otherworldly Driftwood Beach, St. Marys experiences mild winters and hot, humid summers. For the most comfortable temperatures, it's best to visit before June or after September.