Sri Lanka's Dreamy Mountain Capital Is A Timeless Trove Of Culture, Upscale Resorts, And Hills

Kandy, located in the heartland of the tear-shaped island of Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean, was the ancient capital of the country when it was known as Ceylon. Protected by the mountainous jungles, the powerful Sinhalese kingdom warded off European colonizers for centuries before the country fell under British rule in 1815. Known as a sacred city with many important historical, religious, and cultural sites, Kandy has some of the most beautiful and sustainable resorts tucked away in the tea farms on the hills. Today, Kandy is considered the country's cultural capital and is the ultimate mountain destination for travelers to be pampered after chilling on Sri Lanka's less-visited, golden tropical beaches.

Trains are the most enjoyable way to travel from the current capital of Colombo to Kandy, which takes 2.5 hours for the 75-mile journey. The train from 1908 may not be fast, but it's full of old-world charm. First-class passengers on the express train will also be treated to air conditioning. Like many things in Sri Lanka, trains run on island time, so expect some delays. Kick back and enjoy the gorgeous ride as the scenery changes from the azure sea to the verdant jungle. Alternatively, you can book a tour package with a driver, but the drive will take about 3.5 hours or longer, especially if the roads are congested. Be sure to download PickMe, which is the Uber equivalent in Sri Lanka. You can use it to call a tuk-tuk and gauge how much you should pay for rides, as Sri Lanka is a gorgeous, budget-friendly island.

Kandy's call to fame is Sri Dalada Maligawa (or the Temple of the Scared Tooth Relic), which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Princess Hemamala and Prince Dantha of the ancient city of Kalinga, India, brought Gautama Buddha's tooth to Sri Lanka in the fourth century. Since then, kings have guarded it as a symbol of sovereignty, and the golden temple that houses it was built to honor the relic. The facade is embellished in gold, silver, bronze, and ivory carvings. Before entering the site, there are unspoken etiquette rules you need to know before visiting a Buddhist temple.

South of the temple is the Kandy Lake, a picturesque artificial lake where you can take a stroll. Rich with wildlife, you can spot a toque macaque monkey or Asian water monitors. Kandy is an excellent starting point for the Three Temples Loop, which is located southwest of the city. The 4-mile loop links three 14th-century temples through fields of rice paddies and quaint villages. The Gadaladeniya Temple features a stony shrine and a seated Buddha gilded in gold with a red robe. Embekke Devalaya is famous for its intricate carvings on wooden pillars and is dedicated to Kataragama, the Hindu deity of war. Lankathilaka Temple is perched on an uneven crag, a temple with South Indian and Sinhalese influences. It honors Buddha and Hindu gods, such as Vishnu, Saman, and Vibhishana.

About an hour's drive from Kandy, you will arrive in the Knuckles Mountain Range. Santani is an award-winning resort that provides eco-friendly luxury in harmony with nature. It was opened in 2016, and each bungalow in the minimalist resort has private balconies overlooking the verdant tea farms. Santani is the perfect place to unwind and recharge. Its outstanding wellness programs include yoga, meditation, and ancient Ayurveda practices to realign the body, mind, and spirit.

The Kandy Samadhi Center is the quirky brainchild of Waruna Jayasinghe, who designed and built his magical eco-kingdom on a former tea farm. The rooms are built with repurposed wood and furnished with unique antique furniture, adding to the site's whimsical appeal. The center's cuisine features delicious and healthy Sri Lankan food using the freshest locally sourced ingredients. Most herbs are picked straight from the resort's garden. 

While in the area, you can arrange a jeep for a day excursion to see Huluganga Ella (a 223-foot waterfall), embark on a temple walk, or visit a tea plantation. You can also spend the afternoon roaming the grand Royal Botanic Gardens. It showcases an extensive orchid nursery and a cannonball tree with otherworldly fuchsia flowers planted by King George V and Queen Mary during their 1901 visit.