Discover A Seamless Blend Of Old School And Trendy Charm In A New York Foodie Neighborhood

In many ways, the main fault line of New York City is the water that separates Manhattan Island from the rest — the Bronx, Brooklyn, Queens, and Staten Island. Most residents ascribe to one side or the other, either staying out of Manhattan as much as possible or rarely crossing the East and Harlem rivers and Upper Bay to the outer boroughs. That's even more so for tourists, who traditionally keep to Manhattan. Fortunately, that's changing after strenuous efforts by officials, with Brooklyn, especially, seeing growth. And it's the explorers who are truly reaping the rewards, thanks to the diversity, smaller crowds, and lower prices the boroughs offer. 

But it's in Queens that culinary enthusiasts might find the greatest value. As one of the most ethnically diverse counties in the entire world, it is a treasure trove of foreign cuisines, making it one of the most underrated foodie destinations In America. That's particularly true in Astoria, which hugs the bank of the East River, across from Manhattan's Upper East Side and Roosevelt Island. Historically known as the Greek neighborhood and nicknamed "Little Athens," Astoria has since expanded its community to include significant populations from North Africa, Mexico, South America, Eastern Europe, and Asia. With such a medley of cultures in kitchens, it's no wonder Astoria restaurants regularly rack up hat-tips from Michelin. Those ready to dig in can use this visitor's guide to New York City's subway system to get there.

The cultural stamp of modern Astoria's Greek foundations still resonate throughout the neighborhood, from Socrates Sculpture Park to the Hellenic Cultural Center to Saint Demetrios Cathedral. But it's most delicious at the panoply of Greek restaurants and eateries, starting with Taverna Kyclades, the most famous of them. Fish is the main feature of the menu and always presented simply, be it red snapper, octopus, sea bass, or swordfish. If the line defeats you, a number of other excellent sit-down Greek spots can fill the void in your belly and heart just as admirably, including Loukoumi Taverna, Stamatis, and Bahari Estiatorio.

For something more down-to-earth or take-away, head over to BZ Grill on Astoria Boulevard for arguably the best gyro in New York City , albeit with stiff competition from King Souvlaki on 31st Street and Franky's Souvlaki food truck on Steinway Street. Astoria's many Greek bakeries let you bring the Hellenic spirit home — or win every potluck party you attend. A good place to start is Artion Bakery Patisserie for all the baklava, kataifi, and portokalopita you can handle, but save space for the loukoumades and touloumba at Victory Sweet Shop. You might simply fill your backpack with olive oil, feta, fig jam, and honey at Greek grocers like Mediterranean Foods, Titan Foods, and Argjiro's Corner Mediterranean Food Market.

Because of Astoria's diverse demographics, virtually every kind of cuisine is on tap. For Czech, look to Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden, established in 1910. Today, its walled complex claims to be the city's oldest beer garden. While beer remains the primary attraction, the on-site grills top it off with Pilsner beef goulash, schnitzel, and sausages. Fifteen minutes away by foot, in Astoria's "Little Egypt," find Kabab Cafe, which Anthony Bourdain spotlighted in "No Reservations." Just save the falafel fix for King of Falafel on Broadway Avenue, which provides compelling evidence for its claim to the crown with every bite. On the Italian side of Astoria's culinary street, check out Via Vai, which snagged Michelin bib gourmand status in 2021 for its "thin, crackling pizzas."

Tick Astoria's Asian box at Pye Boat Noodle, home to "Thai hawker food," usually sold at floating markets in Thailand. Experience Japan at HinoMaru Ramen, where the tonkotsu ramen broth becomes creamy with a 17-hour boil. Mexican food makes it strongest statement at Ruta Oaxaca, especially with its four kinds of mole. Head three blocks south from there to reach South America at Arepas Cafe, a Venezuelan restaurant serving fist-sized arepas bursting with beef, pulled pork, and melting cheese. Follow with a nightcap one block away at Snowdonia, New York City's only Welsh kitchen and pub. To extend your culinary explorations in The Big Apple, take a food tour through New York's Little Caribbean neighborhood.