Trade Cinque Terre's Crowded Streets For This Tranquil Italian Region
The postcard-perfect villages of Cinque Terre are must-see destinations when traveling to Europe. From the dazzling "jewel" of Italy, Vernazza, to the pastel-perfect hues of Riomaggiore, this region shines with allure and beauty. Even though the spring and fall are the best times for a vacation to Italy, these five charming fishing villages are often still teeming with visitors. But, less than 30 miles away rests an equally gorgeous string of colorful villages, away from the hustle and bustle of Cinque Terre.
The Gulf of Poets (or Gulf of La Spezia) is a magical bay carved into the same stretch of craggy coastline as Cinque Terre in the northern Italian province of Liguria. The bay is centered around the port city of La Spezia, flanked by two rocky promontories in Portovenere and Lerici, with a smattering of small villages in between. This mesmerizing gulf was the muse for artists and writers like Lord Byron, George Sand, and Percy Bysshe Shelley, giving rise to its unique name. The Gulf of Poets boasts the same enchanting soft-toned cliffside fishing villages as Cinque Terre but without the crowds. Discover the beauty of Lerici and Portovenere on the area's tranquil shores.
Towns along the Gulf of Poets
Perched on the hillside overlooking a charming harbor sits Lerici, one of the Gulf of Poets' best-loved towns. Like Cinque Terre's charming villages, Lerici is awash in pastel hues with a striking clifftop castle. Begin your visit in the historic city center at Piazza Garibaldi, complete with richly-colored Ligurian facades and umbrella-covered outdoor dining. The far corner of the square features the Oratory of San Rocco, a small Baroque church with an adjacent bell tower. Continue up the hillside to the town's focal point, San Giorgio Castle. This 13th-century polygonal fortress is open to visitors, with some of the best views. Take the elevator up to the top of the ramparts for panoramic views of the sparkling gulf.
Stretch your legs along Lerici's lungomare, a seaside promenade towards the charming hamlet of San Terenzo. This quaint village was once the residence of English writers Mary and Percy Shelley, whose striking white Villa Shelly (or Villa Magni) still rests alongside the promenade overlooking the Ligurian Sea. Taking the promenade south of Lerici brings visitors to the enchanting fishing village of Tellaro, right next to one of the gulf's top beaches, Spiaggia Fiascherino. Pack a swimsuit and towel to lounge on the pebbled shores while gazing at the blue-green sea. After sunbathing, venture into town to sample Tellaro's specialty — octopus. Tuck into polpo alla tellarese, boiled octopus served with potatoes and olive oil, at the popular foodie spot Osteria La Caletta.
Secret grottoes and islands in Portovenere
Opposite Lerici across the dazzling Gulf of Poets sits Portovenere. This wondrous stretch of coastline is a UNESCO World Heritage site and packs all the pastel-colored charm of the neighboring Cinque Terre villages Riomaggiore and Monterosso. The 12th-century Porta del Borgo (or "village gate") is your passageway into the city. Wander the winding streets past quaint cafes and artisan shops to the hilltop Doria Castle. This majestic fortress was renovated in the 15th century, and its pentagonal shape is reminiscent of the castle in Lerici. Climb up to the terrace gardens for unparalleled views of the glistening gulf and colorful village.
Make your way across the rocky landscape to San Pietro Church. Once the site of a pagan temple devoted to Venus, the church's current form dates back to 1198. The black-and-white-striped marble facade is instantly recognizable, with exceptional views over the bay. Nearby is Lord Byron's Grotto, a secluded rocky cove with crystalline waters. It's said to be the old haunt of the English poet Lord Byron, who spent time meditating and swimming along the rocky shores. He would even swim almost 5 miles across the bay to meet the Shelleys in Lerici.
The Gulf of Poets also features three small islands, Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto. The largest of the three, Palmaria, is home to the Porto Venere Nature Park. The island is easily reached by boat from Portovenere's marina and has excellent hiking trails, rock climbing, and historic sites. Swim at the pebbled Pozzale Beach, populated by sunbathers and goats, or trek the rugged peaks for breathtaking panoramas of the village. When planning your trip to the region, make sure to stop at the Gulf of Poets and consider your travel needs when deciding where to stay in Cinque Terre.