Ditch Burlington's Crowds For A Nearby Tiny Town With Some Artsy Quirks And Delicious Food

The best thing about Burlington is that it's so close to Vermont — so goes the local joke. While the jab reflects the usual divide between city and country, it also contrasts Burlington's long-held leftist leanings — exemplified under former Mayor Bernie Sanders — with the stoic, frugal Yankee farmers who typified the rest of the state. However, the past few decades have changed the equation, as new people move into the state and seek affordable housing. That's pushed more and more folks into small towns like Waterbury, a 30-minute drive from Burlington, about the same distance as these stunning Vermont islands. And they've given Waterbury a burst of development that's put it on ever more Vermont travel itineraries.

For older Vermonters, the transformation elicits a double take. For generations, Waterbury played third or fourth fiddle not just to Burlington, but to next-door Stowe — one of the state's top destinations and home to several awe-inspiring Vermont hikes and fall foliage experiences — and was infamous for the Vermont Hospital for the Insane, in its center, making any trip to Waterbury suspect. 

Today, this town of 5,300 people tells a very different story, thanks to a new range of quirky and hip restaurants, cafes, breweries, and boutiques that join its few traditional draws, such as the Ben & Jerry's factory. It's also bonded Waterbury closer to Burlington, as the easy commute and weekday express buses make it ideal for people working there.

Pulling off Interstate 89 at exit 10, travelers are immediately faced with a road-not-taken choice. A right turn goes into the walkable Waterbury Village Historic District. The intersection at Main and Stowe streets marks the center. Follow Stowe Street to the railway bridge and past a few local favorites, including Bridgeside Books and Stowe Street Café, both reflecting the quintessence of small-town Vermont. Across the street is Freak Folk Bier, a small craft brewery and taproom. Just steps away on Main Street are Waterbury's two most notable restaurants, Prohibition Pig and Hen of the Wood. The first is one of the state's best brewpubs and the second is perhaps Vermont's best restaurant. While at either, stop by Jeremy Ayers Pottery in an 1870 carriage barn nearby, for some master-crafted cups, bowls, vases, and more 

A left turn from Exit 10 leads to Stowe, but not before passing through the more spread-out Waterbury Center. The main highlight is the Ben & Jerry's Factory, which runs tours and scoops cones. Continuing north passes Zenbarn, a social hub with live music, food, and drink. A mile later is the Cabot Creamery Store, where you can fill up on samples of the iconic Vermont cheese. Lake Champlain Chocolates is across the parking lot. Further on up the road is Cold Hollow Cider Mill, a Vermont institution inside a 19th-century farmhouse. The free cider served from the tanks may be the world's best; the same is true of the cider doughnuts.