This Beautiful Town On Massachusetts' Coast Is Home To One Of The Best Beaches In America
It's been more than 60 years since singer Patti Page crooned about falling in love with Old Cape Cod's quaint little villages and salty air. A lot has changed, but the essence of Page's idyllic vision of the Cape (as locals call it) still exists in places like Eastham, Massachusetts. While much, but not all, of the Upper Cape has gradually become more suburban since the mid-1960s completion of the highway connecting the Cape to Boston, the Outer Cape towns of Eastham, Truro, Wellfleet, and Provincetown still retain the Old Cape Cod charm Page immortalized with the release of her 1957 hit single. If you're looking for an idyllic setting along with a gorgeous stretch of shoreline, look no further. That's especially true in Eastham, where Coast Guard Beach consistently ranks among the Top 10 best beaches in the United States.
Compiled annually since 1989 by Dr. Stephen P. Leatherman (aka Dr. Beach), a professor and director of the Laboratory for Coastal Research at Florida International University, the list takes into account a comprehensive roster of 50 criteria ranging from views and vistas to sand color and water temperature. The southernmost section of the Cape Cod National Seashore, a 40-mile stretch of protected coastal land established as a U.S. national park in 1961 to protect the natural landscape of the Outer Cape from aggressive development, Coast Guard Beach is about two miles from another iconic local landmark: Eastham Windmill.
Eastham Windmill is an iconic landmark
Built in Plymouth, Massachusetts, in about 1680, the Eastham Windmill was moved to the town of Truro — about 15 miles north of Eastham — in the 1770s. In 1793, it was relocated once again to a parcel of land adjacent to Eastham's Salt Pond before finally landing at its current location on the Eastham Town Green in 1808. Why so many moves? Apparently, Cape Cod windmills of the era, which were used to power gristmills and desalination operations, were built so they could easily be sold and moved to a new location.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Eastham Windmill, in the town's designated historic district, offers a glimpse into 19th-century life on the Cape. It's open daily for tours during the summer, and the annual Eastham Windmill Weekend, a multi-day celebration of the iconic landmark, kicks off every year in early September.
In an interesting twist, Eastham doesn't have a bustling main drag lined with shops and restaurants. Instead, the windmill and surrounding green serve as a communal gathering place, hosting events like a summer concert series and holiday caroling. That's not to say you'll leave without a souvenir. Galleries, antique stores, and one-of-a-kind shops are located throughout town, along with a roster of restaurants and cafés ranging from breakfast joints and pizzerias to pubs and delis. For an iconic Cape Cod dining experience, head to Arnold's Lobster & Clam Bar. Family-owned since 1977, the seasonal eatery was named one of Coastal Living's all-time best seafood dives in 2017. In the mood for a sweet treat? Check out the bakery at Chocolate Café. And if you're up for a picnic, head to Sam's Deli, an Eastham mainstay for more than 20 years, where you can pick up lunch on the run.
Explore beyond the beach
Lunch in hand, it's time to explore Eastham's natural beauty. In addition to Coast Guard Beach, the town boasts a mix of about a dozen other areas where you can picnic and take a dip. Options include bayside and oceanside beaches as well as fresh-water ponds. Generally speaking, the water is usually a touch cooler at the beaches on the Atlantic side of the Cape while the Bayside waters tend to be warmer and calmer. Most town-owned beaches require a resident or temporary parking permit during the summer season. The Cape Cod National Seashore manages two of the region's most well-known beaches — Coast Guard and Nauset Light. Per-diem parking is available for a fee. Annual passes for the Cape Cod National Seashore and the National Park Service are available to purchase at some locations.
But there's more to the Cape Cod National Seashore than, well, seashore. The 45,000-acre protected landscape is also home to two of the region's most popular hiking trails. A one-mile loop, Fort Hill Trail traverses open fields that offer stunning views of nearby marshlands. Red Maple Swamp Trail follows an elevated boardwalk through a landscape of red maple trees. It's a magical setting at the height of fall foliage season.
To get a deeper understanding of the diverse landscape — and the ever-changing Cape Cod shoreline — visit the Cape Cod National Seashore Salt Pond Visitor Center. Operated by the National Park Service, the center includes a museum dedicated to all things Cape Cod, including exhibits about the indigenous Wampanoag tribe, whaling and maritime history, and how the rising sea level has affected the Cape's topography through millennia. It's also the starting point for ranger-led activities like canoe trips and guided tours of historic sites, including the Captain Penniman House and Three Sisters of Nauset lighthouses.