Escape Into The Beauty Of Brazil Unaltered By Tourism At This Little-Known Island Paradise
Twenty-six islands make up the Tinharé Archipelago, stretches of sand strewn along Brazil's Atlantic shore. Arguably most beautiful among them is Boipeba, a rarely visited slice of life between the ocean and the Rio do Inferno (the inaptly named River of Hell). Travelers seeking a respite from the furor of the street parties that rage through prime tourist destination Rio de Janeiro or from the bustling beaches of Brazil's south should hop aboard a boat headed for Boipeba and check into a small island hideaway.
No motorized vehicles are allowed on the island — your adventures will all be undertaken on foot, bicycle, ATV, or roving donkey cart. There's no need to walk far, though. No matter where you are, the island has white sand beaches a short journey away, dense mangroves for wildlife enthusiasts to explore, and villages conserving traditional practices hidden amid the inland forest.
To reach the island, travelers should set out from the northern Brazilian city of Salvador. Air taxis fly straight from Salvador's international airport for 770 Brazilian reais, or about $140. The flight takes about half an hour. Travelers who prefer to skip the flight can start in Valença, where boats leave regularly for Boipeba, with ferries charging about 44 reais. Guests should keep in mind that Boipeba has no ATMs or banks. Reliable Wi-Fi connections are hard to come by too.
Enjoy empty beaches and excursions into rarely explored waters
Nine major stretches of sand encircle Boipeba, each with its own character. One of the largest beaches, with the most established tourism infrastructure, is Boca da Barra, where calm waters with low waves are primed for paddleboarders and kayakers. However, if you're looking to avoid any other tourists on the island, venture to tricky-to-reach Bainema Beach. Cloistered by clusters of coconut groves and laid flat with white sands, its minimal infrastructure means you'll often have the beach almost to yourself — though there is a bar nearby. Snorkelers should travel farther along the tranquil shore to Tassimirim beach, and scuba divers can pay a visit to the scuba center at Moreré beach. Visiting between July and November, you'll also be able to take an excursion to spy humpback whales taking their long migration along the Brazilian coast.
Boipeba is also home to natural pools filled with interesting aquatic critters. Take a solo stroll towards the natural pools formed at low tide on the beaches of Tassimirim and Castelhanos, or opt for a local-led guided tour with snorkeling equipment included. Further from the shorefront, shrouded by forest, the island's dense mangroves are worth leaving the shore for. Arrange for a sunset kayak tour beneath the foliage and flocking birds, ending with a dip amid the bioluminescence that glitters in the night. All of these expeditions out can be organized via your hotel on the ground or through local company Ecomar, for those who prefer to book in advance.
Embrace island culture unspoiled by tourism
Isolated from the rush of Brazil's major coastal cities, culture developed at a relaxed pace in Boipeba. Populated by sleepy fishing villages and rarely disturbed by the outside world, the island has conserved much of its indigenous heritage. Travelers preferring to incorporate a touch of culture into their tranquil beach retreat should take the Boipeba Roots tour of the island, run by Quase Nativa. The tour includes everything from lessons in traditional holistic therapies and ancestral wisdom to a visit to local food producers. It also takes visitors to secluded swimming spots favored by the locals on the already sparsely touristed island.
As in every destination, the local cuisine can also offer great insight into the day-to-day life on Boipeba. The food simple and homey — practically every ingredient used is farmed or foraged on the island, the fish brought in fresh each day by the fishermen that cut through the horizon. Try fresh octopus with the sand still between your toes at Barraca Morere, whole lobsters grilled inside their shells at Guido's closer to town, or hearty shrimp stew at Restaurante Nascente do Sol. Each homemade meal is best paired with a classic Brazilian caipirinha, often sweetened by freshly plucked local fruit. With no light pollution disturbing the island's clear skies, the evenings are made for sitting out and watching the sunset at one of the many beachfront eateries or cocktail stalls.