Skip The Yosemite Valley Crowds But Not The Stunning Views On This Underrated Scenic Route

The Yosemite Valley's postcard views are indescribably more powerful when you see them in person. But sometimes it's hard to feel the majesty when you're jostling among crowds on popular (if treacherous) hikes like the Mist Trail or if you're trying to peer through a forest of selfie sticks to spot climbers on iconic El Capitan. So go see the Valley, by all means — its vistas will be burned into your memory banks for the rest of your life — but when it comes time to hike, explore, and relax, the Tioga Road through Yosemite's remote high country beckons. To learn where to go and what to see in this under-the-radar wonderland, Islands spoke exclusively to veteran Yosemite adventurer Felicia Leo Kemp, co-author of "Moon Northern California Hiking."

"The average first-time visitor to Yosemite will likely never leave the valley, and if they do, it's typically to go to Glacier Point," Kemp says. "On Tioga Road, you get the vast beauty of the park, including some lesser-seen viewpoints of famous landmarks like Half Dome. The trails are less populated by visitors, and only being open seasonally makes it a much more intimate experience."

To get here, you'll head north from the park's western entrance (remember to reserve an entry time) and climb up, up, and away on Highway 120. Traversing the Yosemite high country West to East, this 46-mile scenic byway that's open roughly June through mid-November (it closes with the first big snowfall) will take you from the Valley to the highest pass in the Sierra, passing through the very heart of Yosemite National Park.

From the Yosemite Valley floor, you'll crane your neck to look up at Half Dome, but the views along Tioga Road, guidebook author Felicia Leo Kemp says, offer an entirely different perspective. "From the west, you can just drive into the parking lot for a different view of Half Dome at Olmstead Point," Kemp says. "For those who are well-conditioned hikers, Clouds Rest and Cathedral Lakes provide stunning vistas worth the miles."

Arguably a better experience with better views than the hike up Half Dome itself, the 13.5-mile hike to Cloud's Rest (pictured) is an all-day excursion, gaining over 3,000 feet over an already dizzying elevation to top out at just under 10,000 feet, which Kemp points out can challenge even fit hikers who haven't acclimated themselves. But when you reach the viewpoint to gaze 1,000 feet down at Half Dome, you'll be breathless from more than just the altitude as a sense of awe floods your system. Then, you turn 360 degrees and experience an unparalleled panorama of knock-out scenery, from El Captain's massive cliffs to gleaming Tayana Lake below.

For a shorter, less steep hike that ends at two refreshing, idyllic lakes where you can take a mid-hike foot soak, the Cathedral Lakes Trail is just 9.5 miles long, ideal for an afternoon. This is where you'll really feel that intimate connection with nature Kemp talks about, as chances are you'll get to enjoy the lake to yourself for a spell, or maybe share it with a family of thirsty deer.

"One of my favorite spots is Tenaya Lake, with multiple parking areas for easy access, a flat trail around the lake, and pit toilets for the win!" guidebook author Felicia Leo Kemp says of the crystal clear alpine lake (pictured) you can see right from the Tioga Road. Sitting at 8,000 feet, it's up to 20 degrees cooler on the inviting shores of Tenaya (nicknamed the Jewel of the High Country) than it is down in 4,000-foot high Yosemite Valley. On the lakeshore, you can wander between sandy beaches and smooth stretches of sun-warmed granite slab that are perfect for picnicking on.

Kemp's popular Instagram @FamilyTrailTime is devoted to family-friendly hiking, and she has favorites to share. "I've enjoyed taking kids through the mostly flat Tuolumne Meadows with granite views and a winding river, and up the easiest of domes, Lembert Dome (less than 1,000 feet elevation gain, 2.8 miles)," she says. How adorable is it that there's a place where pint-sized hikers can tackle a miniature version of Half-Dome (pictured at top) to stand on top of the world? Bagging this fun little peak might be all the high-altitude adventuring the adults need, too. "If you are not accustomed or acclimated to the elevation, even a 'short and easy' excursion can be more exhausting than you expect," Kemp cautions.

To give your body time to acclimate, you could spend the night at one of the campgrounds along Tioga Road, and see some amazing stars from Tuolumne Meadow by night, as there's that much less atmosphere between you and the heavens. And when you're ready to move on to the next adventure, Kemp's hiking guidebook would be a perfect take-along for an epic road trip to visit all of California's nine National Parks.