Swim In Crystal-Clear Waters At This Wildly Underrated And Laidback Caribbean Island

Seven years after Hurricanes Irma and Maria swept through the British Virgin Islands, leaving a trail of destruction in their wake, Virgin Gorda is back. Some things have changed, but the essence of the island — long heralded as one of the most beautiful places in the British Virgin Islands — remains intact, so it's time to revisit the stunning island.

Located about 80 miles east of Puerto Rico, Virgin Gorda is the third largest in a string of about 60 islands that stretches along an archipelago between the Atlantic Ocean to the north and the Caribbean Sea to the south. Widely known as a premier sailing destination due in part to the proximity of individual islands creating a natural barrier that channels the steady trade winds while moderating their impact on the water, the British Virgin Islands caught the eye of the recreational sailing community in the mid-20th century. Virgin Gorda, in particular, drew sailors to its well-protected North Sound, where crystal-clear waters lap gently at the shore.

Three men who figured prominently in the development of Virgin Gorda as a vacation destination were part of that sailing community — Laurence Rockefeller, Basil Symonette, and Bert Kilbride. Each, in their own way, contributed to the laid-back tone that continues to define Virgin Gorda more than half a century later, making it especially appealing to both free-spirited sailors and landlubbers seeking friendly fun in the sun.

Symonette, an avid yachtsman who frequented Virgin Gorda's North Sound, purchased a one-mile stretch of shorefront acreage in the 1960s. He opened a bar, built five simple cottages, and christened the property The Bitter End. At about the same time, Rockefeller, a philanthropist and avid conservationist, was building Little Dix Bay, a luxe-but-simple resort on the other side of the island. A stone's throw from Bitter End, Kilbride was offering dive courses from a base at Saba Rock. Pirates' Pub, a thatched-roof beachfront bar, cemented the island's reputation as a go-to hangout for the region's sailing crowd.

While the dual hurricanes leveled all three of the island's earliest resorts, the current owners of each of these locations resolved to honor the founders' original visions during reconstruction, sticking with the Caribbean-casual attitude that has prevailed in Virgin Gorda since tourism took hold in the 1960s. The newly renovated Saba Rock and Little Dix Bay (now a Rosewood property) are welcoming guests again. The Bitter End Yacht Club, owned by the Hokin family in the 1970s and expanded over time to include about four-dozen hillside cabins, has been gradually reopening with a renewed focus on Symonette's vision of servicing the local sailing industry.

One thing that hasn't changed at all post-hurricane is Virgin Gorda's stunning natural beauty. In addition to the expansive vistas visible from atop its volcanic peaks, The Baths at beach level are among the island's biggest draws. Formed millions of years ago when molten rock oozed into layers of volcanic rock where it gradually cooled and set, the rocks were eventually exposed to the elements. Over time, sharp edges have softened to graceful curves, creating a labyrinthine landscape of towering boulders, crystal-clear tidal pools, and enchanting passages for vacationers to explore.

Other must-see points of interest around the island include the ruins at Copper Mine. The recently dedicated national park, located on a promontory on the island's southeast corner, centers on the remnants of a mid-19th-century copper mine and community settled by miners from Cornwall, England. For a good hike, head to Gorda Peak National Park, where trails lead to the highest point on the island. If you're into snorkeling, a daysail with one of Virgin Gorda's charter companies is an absolute must. Explore the kaleidoscopic underwater world at The Baths or head to premier snorkeling destinations at Spring Bay, Savannah Bay, Mahoe Bay, or at the nearby rock formation known as The Dogs.

When it comes to dining, Virgin Gorda's roster of eateries and watering holes runs the gamut from bohemian casual to romantic fine dining, including several options that offer unparalleled vistas. Located on a hill overlooking The Baths, Top of the Baths is a destination in its own right. There's a bar, restaurant, and on-site swimming pool. And since it's located at the trailhead for The Baths, it's the ideal setting for post-exploration tipple. Set on a hilltop overlooking North Sound, Hog Heaven is another island mainstay. The casual open-air eatery has a well-earned reputation as the place to go for barbecue and sunsets. If your plans call for a fancier setting with a stellar view, head for Sugarcane at Nail Bay. Reinvented after the 2017 hurricanes destroyed the original structure, the one-time burger joint reopened in 2019 as a more upscale eatery with poolside dining and great views.

Spanish Town has long been Virgin Gorda's main shopping destination, but the newly renovated Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour, a mall-like development on the island's west coast, is gaining traction.