The Time Of Year When The French Riviera Is Overrated And Not Worth Visiting, Per Rick Steves

The dream of running off to the French Riviera to lounge on its gorgeous beaches is a popular one. The rich and famous have been vacationing there for over a century. Towns like Nice, Antibes, and Villefranche-sur-Mer may seem like the epitome of luxury during the long, hot summer months, but in addition to pretty shorelines and fancy shops, the French Riviera has crowds of people who had the same dream. In fact, travel expert Rick Steves says on his website that the French Riviera is one of "Europe's most overrated spots" in July and August. This is high tourist season, and being smashed in on a beach or walking through town, shoulder to shoulder with so many other people in the heat doesn't sound that relaxing or glamourous. 

Steves says, "Americans get the shortest vacations in the industrial world," and that means we have to plan carefully when looking for a vacation spot at the right time. He has a few options to get around the tourist-y areas if you do visit in those summer months that include going inland from the beaches a bit. There are also other times to travel to this hot spot that you're likely to enjoy more if you're not just there to see and be seen. Time to brush up on your French phrases and visit the Riviera off-season.

The second week of August is the biggest for tourism in the area, with 650,000 tourists, and the month itself has 14% of the yearly overnight stays. The shoulder seasons may be a better option for you, according to Steves. He says, "Spring and fall are best, with generally comfortable weather," though he cautions to check for festivals in the area and avoid holiday weekends. Part of the reason for the packed summers in the French Riviera is that Europeans tend to be off then, and it could get you stuck in long car lines in the area. Why rely on your rental car's air conditioning when you can visit at other times. "September brings the grape harvest, when small wineries are off-limits to taste-seeking travelers. Late fall delivers beautiful foliage and a return to tranquility." (September is when all the sunflowers are in bloom.) May is generally one of the best months for traveling in terms of weather, but make sure you don't overlap with the Cannes Film Festival when everyone is there to promote their new films or the race enthusiasts at the F1 Monaco Grand Prix. 

Another great time to visit is around the holidays, as the French Riviera has wonderful Christmas markets in many towns. If you visit in February, you can enjoy the Nice Carnival, which is one of the largest in the world, or marvel at the fruit sculptures at the Lemon Festival in Menton, which is one of the little-known beach towns in the area, and great to visit no matter what time of year you're there.

One thing Steves recommends when visiting the French Riviera is moving away from the beaches. He says, "For your French Riviera escape, head inland and upward." One spot he suggests for visitor is St-Paul-de-Vence, and while it, too, can get its share of tourists, you can go see this hill town off-hours. He says, "Beat the crowds by showing up here for breakfast, or come for dinner and experience the village at its tranquil best." Nearby is the town of Vence, which is famous for a beautiful chapel called Chappelle du Rosaire (or Chapel of the Rosary) that was designed by famous artist Henri Matisse later in his life. 

If you're a fan of perfume, you can head to Eze-le-Village to the Fragonard factory to take a tour. It's guided and it's free, with tours in French, German, Italian, Spanish, and English. There are also a number of perfume workshops to book, ranging from around $32 to $76. In the same town you'll find the Château Eza where the Swedish royal family would vacation in the winter from the early to mid-20th century. You can also take a ride to see the 2,000-year-old Trophée des Alpes or Trophy of Augustus, which Steves suggests. He says, "The massive monument commemorates Augustus Caesar's conquest of the Alps and its 44 hostile tribes." Plus, it overlooks the coast and the country of Monaco, and it's really hard to get a better view than that.