Explore The Most Underrated Capital City In All Of Europe Hidden By Medieval, Historic Walls

For any child who loved fairytales growing up, conquering the walls and towers of the world's real castles like Burg Eltz — the best castle in Europe according to Rick Steves — conjures that world of fantasy. In Tallinn, Estonia, these knights and damsels, warlords and barbarians, and jesters and magicians seem so tantalizingly close that a single touch of stone might launch an Outlander spin-off. Thanks to the astounding preservation and stranger fortune, more than half of the 13^th-century walls still snuggle the capital. Along this one mile of limestone walls are 26 towers and four gates — creating one of Europe's strongest medieval defense systems. Furthermore, they surround a highly underrated capital, only reopened to the world in 1991, when Estonians reclaimed independence from the Soviet Union.

Even better is that most of the walls and city have been restored. In fact, several of the orange-tipped conical towers have found new life as a cafe, museum, or art gallery. Otherwise, you can scamper about the ramparts and enjoy the views from the three Kohtuotsa, Patkuli, and Piiskopi viewing platforms. However, the best view may still be looking up from the base as you follow the circuit on both the attacker and defender sides, especially at long stretches along the north side. Conversely, you can grab a bird's eye view at St Olaf's Church, the largest medieval building in Tallinn. Near the top of its 400-foot tower is an observation platform that splays out the city and walls below you.

The walls of Tallinn enclose an entire medieval city that feels like one big castle itself. Founded in the 13^th century by Teutonic Knights, it blossomed into a major trading port as a member of the Hanseatic league in the subsequent centuries. Unfortunately, that also made it a target for one conquering army after another — including two World Wars in the last century. It's a wonder any of it remains at all, much less the substantial amount that made the entire Old Town a UNESCO World Heritage site. It also makes Tallinn one of the great cities to get lost in, as any alleyway may twist and turn into a scene from the 1986 cult classic "Labyrinth" before reconnecting with reality on the main streets.

Start this exploration in the town square. In the dead center, you'll find a circular stone with a compass. With a few yogic neck bends, you can see Tallinn's five most famous towers from atop. The square itself also looks every bit the fairytale, thanks to the Gothic town hall built in 1322 and the pastel medieval buildings surrounding it. Head in any direction and find more time machines; including Toompea Castle, home of the Estonian parliament and the tallest tower; St. Mary's Cathedral St. Catherine's Passage; and the Estonian History Museum. Perhaps the most fun version — with a lot of cheese — can be found at Olde Hansa, a medieval cosplay restaurant that serves 15^th-century dishes inside a home of the same age.

With so much history wrapping you like a Snuggie, it's easy to forget that Tallinn is a living city. Both in and beyond the walls, nearly half a million people work, live, and play, and a significant portion are under 40. Plus, for Estonians, Tallinn is where you go to make it big. As such, entrepreneurs — and the businesses they launched — inject some young energy.  Find many in the Kalamaja district northwest of the city walls. This hipster heaven is home to many young and fab restaurants, cafes, boutiques, galleries, and markets. Find several at Telliskivi Creative City, a former industrial complex turned into the coolest shopping and entertainment complex ever.

Perhaps the biggest beneficiaries of the young spirit are gullets and bellies. That's because Tallinn is home to the top restaurants in the country, including two with Michelin stars and five more with Bib Gourmand status. Nearly all tick the modern and creative categories, turning out eclectic dishes with a lot of Baltic heartin equally eclectic atmospheres. Beer lovers reap rewards, too, as the craft brewing revolution also came to Tallinn, opening breweries like Põhjola, Humalakoda, and Vaat. It's also a great reminder that young Tallinn likes a party. All the colors of nightlife are on tap, too, be it techno-vibing at Hall, headbanging at Tapper, or clinking fancy cocktails at Butterfly Lounge. When combined with another of Europe's most affordable cities to visit in the region and this picturesque canal city in Poland, Tallinn reminds a visit to the Baltics is long past due.