The Untouristed Town Rick Steves Recommends For A Perfect Taste Of Portugal Without Crowds
While it may not be on as many travel bucket lists as its Southern European neighbors Spain and Italy, Portugal is a treasure trove of quintessentially European experiences. Think walkable old city centers with cobbled streets, imposing castles, perpetually great food and wine, and a coastline that makes you want to immediately retire and move there. The prolific travel guru Rick Steves, an authority on the best places to visit in Europe, has flattering things to say about this coastal country on the edge of Europe, which is both travel- and pocket-friendly. While Steves' take on why Portugal's capital Lisbon reminds him of San Francisco is a glowing (rather surprising) ode to both cities, he recommends those looking for a truly authentic taste of Portugal minus the crowds to head to the small town of Tomar.
Situated in central Portugal on the banks of a river, Tomar's history goes back over 900 years. The range of historical influences is perhaps best epitomized by the castle-turned-convent that overlooks the city and was originally a stronghold for the Knights Templar. The town is small enough to explore on foot, picturesque, and just 90 miles from Lisbon. You can make a flying visit and see the sights in a day, but it's easy (and affordable) enough to slow down and soak in this destination that's not completely off the map but definitely off the beaten path.
What to do when visiting Tomar
The heart of Tomar is its cobbled chequerboard main square, Praça da República, which is also the center of the town's historical area. Old architecture, street cafes, shops, artists, and musicians all give it European charm, and you'll also find the statue of D. Gualdim Pais, the Knight Templar who founded the city. Come here during the Festa dos Tabuleiros festival that's celebrated in Tomar every four years, as the town's 20,000 residents host approximately a half-million visitors. However, there is also a colorful roster of cultural festivals that take place in Tomar annually. Two of Portugal's major music events — the Bon Sons festival and the Zêzere Arts festival — are also celebrated near the city.
While there are tuk-tuks to ferry you around town, Tomar's easy walkability makes it great to experience on foot. The picturesque Nabão River runs through the town's center, and there are multiple museums, ornate chapels, and The Center for Contemporary Art — all great places to dive into Portuguese culture and creativity. The Museum of Matches, with its collection of over 60,000 matchboxes, also makes for a quirky itinerary addition.
Finally, Tomar's pièce de résistance — the Convento de Cristo or the Convent of Christ — a stone fortress constructed in the 12th century that overlooks the town. The surrounding woods also have several hiking and biking trails that offer stunning views of the convent while you soak up the countryside.
Tomar is loaded with European history and culture
Tomar may be relatively untouristy, but its deep-rooted association with the Knights Templar makes it a historical European landmark. In fact, in terms of modern history, the town is almost as old as Portugal. The country's history can be traced back to 1140 AD when its first king, Afonso Henriques, ascended the throne. Twenty years later, the Knights Templar settled on lands granted by the king and began construction on the fortress that overlooks Tomar. The monument as it stands today (pictured) was built over a period of 500 years. The Convent of Christ takes cues from Gothic, Renaissance, and Middle Eastern architecture. An internal section called the Charola is actually considered to be a replica of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, built on the site of Jesus' crucifixion in Jerusalem.
A related historical site in Tomar is the Acueducto de los Pegões, the aqueduct that supplied the Convent of Christ with water. Dating back to the 16th century, this massive stone structure is supported by multiple layers of arches and has been one of the National Monuments of Portugal for over a century. The Convent of Christ, meanwhile, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tomar's charm encompasses a lot of what makes Portugal such a fascinating destination, but it is by no means the only town of its kind. Rick Steves also recommends another town that's a less-crowded mini Lisbon, which lets you experience Portugal at your own pace.