Escape Istanbul's Urban Bustle And Crowds At These Car-Free, Lush Turkish Islands

It's hard to catch your breath in Istanbul. The megacity (which is a food-lover's dream and has one of the world's best airports for layovers) of almost 16 million at the crossroads of Europe and Asia packs so much action and energy that slowing down becomes impossible. That's intensified by the squeeze of limited land, thanks to the Black and Marmara seas to the north and south, and the Bosphorus and Golden Horn running through the center. On the streets of its historic neighborhoods, this translates to traffic of all kinds continuously underfoot and ample practice of the artful dodge. Screaming from it all is an urban cacophony turned up to 11, making a moment's peace almost impossible to find. That's why Istanbullus so often board ferries each weekend and ride the tide southeast to the archipelago known as The Princes' Islands.

The breath of fresh air comes with a gulp of the past. On the four main Princes' islands — Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kinaliada — automobiles are banned. In fact, horse and buggy provided transport until they were banned in 2020. Now, small electric carts and ebikes traverse the islands, but the old-world spirit remains strong in the Ottoman summer mansions, Orthodox monasteries, and forested hills. Once visitors leave the embrace of the ferry dock and attached village, the islands open up to a hilly green canopy of pine, oak, and cypress trees, rocky outcrops, and secluded beaches. Against the concrete carpet of Istanbul, the Princes' Islands appear a virtual Eden.

Take the Princes' Islands one day at a time. That's partly because of the ferry times but also because most host a full day's experience. That's certainly true of Büyükada, the "big island." The village charms on its own, especially over any of the Turkish dishes you need to try at least once and tea, perhaps explaining why Turkey drinks more tea than any other country. Exploring further is best by bike or electric cart, as the paths wind and climb along postcard sea views. Stop at Aya Yorgi Church, a monastery built in 1751; the Greek Orphanage, the world's second largest wood building; and the Leon Trotsky house, where the Russian revolutionary spent years of exile. Learn more history at the Museum of the Princes' Islands.

The next largest island, Heybeliada, is even greener. Four hills shape the landscape into the "saddlebag" of the Turkish name. At the top of the highest is the Halki Seminary, a Greek Orthodox Theological School with 1,000-year-old foundations. Another key sight is the İsmet İnönü House, home of Atatürk's successor. Otherwise, spread out the blanket at Değirmenburnu Tabiat Park. Burgazada is smaller but still woos with woody trails, ancient monasteries, and Ayazma Beach, as well as the Sait Faik Abasıyanık Museum, home of the famous Turkish author. Kınalıada, the smallest islands, contains few trees — and things to do. However, in the high season, that's a bonus.  

As the Princes' Islands are a popular day trip from Istanbul, ferries run from multiple places on the European and Asian sides, with the latter being the fastest because of proximity. It also depends on the ferry company. Şehir Hatları, Mavi Marmara, and Dentur all run the routes, taking about 1.5 hours each way. The voyage is half the fun, though, especially on the ferries with outside areas, where salty breezes mingle with laughing seagulls, hot tea and simit, and vistas of Istanbul. Just look for the terminal that says "Adalar," or "Islands." Also keep an eagle eye on the last return ferry time or chance a night on the beach. 

Once you arrive, you'll want to change to bike or electric cart for exploring. Going short distances on foot is fine but can quickly turn painful the further you get into the countryside. In fact, an ebike is probably the best option for anyone below moderate fitness. Sunscreen and water are a must, as a hot day can fry and dry the skin easily. Getting back to the village quickly may not be possible, so bring all you need with you, including beach towel, picnic basket, and munchies. You might also add a battery pack to this, as phone charging stations become few and far between. The important thing is to take the islands slow — and not ignite the dessert debate Greece And Turkey can't seem to settle. For another relaxing destination in Turkey, consider swinging by the Turkish riviera.