Relax In These Hidden Hot Springs In Tuscany For Ultimate Relaxation In Bright-Blue Waters

Whether you're a dedicated Tuscan wine lover, culture hound, or a pilgrim to Rick Steves' favorite underrated Italian destination, everyone has time for an afternoon soak in some hot springs. Mineral-rich mud and hot water from a thermal spring form an area known as Fosso Bianco, and it's the perfect place to unwind. Best of all, it's absolutely free.

Nestled in the southern Tuscan town of Bagni San Filippo, you can take a quick hike there through the woods from the road, Via Fosso Bianco. The water swells from rocks, flowing down and eventually with the water from the river. In town, a spa called Terme San Filippo harnesses the same springs for its own mineral treatment facilities and skin care products. The spa also offers a thermal-fed swimming pool, which is open to the public from March until October from 8:30 a.m. seven days a week, closing at 7 p.m. Wednesday to Monday and 4:30 p.m. on Tuesdays.

While the spa charges a €12 entry on weekdays and €14 on weekends, you can enjoy a piece of the steamy (albeit smelly) sulfur waters in their natural environment for free. Bring your water shoes, as stones can be rough or slippery. From any of the hotels in town, it's an easy sub-10-minute hike into the forest to reach the springs. While Saturnia's hot springs have captured the eye of many more Tuscan visitors, Bagni San Filippo's hot springs are still a relatively secret spot, mostly frequently by locals.

Fosso Bianco changes through the year

The hot springs, which can reach 118 degrees Fahrenheit, erupt through a wall of limestone called the Balenca Bianca, or "white whale." The hot water cascades down the limestone like a waterfall before bubbling into a series of pools that snake through the forest. Like Goldilocks, visitors can test the temperature of each pool, starting at the source, until finding one that's just right to make Fosso Bianco the ideal luxurious hot spring destination. To the right of Baleca Bianca, locals have created their own pools with stones that allow for the mixing of the thermal springs with waterfall water, eliminating the rotten-egg smell of the sulfur. 

Rainfall increases from September through December, when the rainwater's minerals mix with the hot springs, changing the water's color from blue to green, or even red. Despite the pools' new look and the area's cooler winter temps, which can drop as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit, these hot springs are still comfortable and easy to visit year-round. In the summer, temperatures can reach above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. You can spend the night in Bagni San Filippo at one of several vacation apartment or bungalow rentals, which sleep from two to four people. The village also has two bed and breakfasts: Bbbagni, with five bedrooms; and B&B Il Fosso Bianco, with double rooms as well as family rooms. But for most visitors, the village is only a quick day trip away from other destinations in Tuscany.

Making a day trip to Bagni San Filippo during the Tuscan spring

If avoiding the crowds and experiencing peak weather for thermal relaxation lead you to your happy place, you may agree with Rick Steves, Lonely Planet, and the many other travel experts who agree that spring is the best time to vacation in Italy. Not only will you avoid the summer crowds, but you'll also find the outside temperatures of 58 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit a comfortable climate in which to enjoy the healing thermal water. Tuscany's lively Easter festivities, wine country, and hilly landscapes are also great in the springtime.

Bagni San Filippo is an easy day trip by car from Siena, a central Tuscan city about 40 miles away. Siena is an old city that was a military colony during the Roman Empire. Its ancient cathedral, medieval architecture, and cultural sites offer much to explore during a visit or longer stay. The city is also featured in the James Bond film "Quantum of Solace."

If you're traveling by train or bus, you can also stop by Chianciano Terme, a more substantial spa-resort town about 15 miles from Bagni San Filippo. This town can be reached by bus and train from Rome or Florence. From there, you can make your way to San Filippo. It's two hours by bus and 30 minutes by car. You might want to stop in other villages in this charming, hilly region known as the Val d'Orcia to break up a bus journey.

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