This Laidback New Hampshire Beach Town Oozes Quiet Luxury

"Old money whispers, new money shouts," wrote Canadian novelist and poet, Margaret Atwood — and her observation applies along the coasts of New England, where luxury thrives quietly in line with tendencies toward modesty and frugality. Thanks to the region's Puritan past, New Englanders don't usually "make it rain." This quiet luxury also keeps low-key towns like Rye, New Hampshire off the over-beaten tourist path. In fact, the entire state coastline plays fourth or fifth fiddle to more popular New England luxury destinations, including Bar Harbor and Kennebunkport, Maine; Cape Cod, Massachusetts; Newport, Rhode Island; and Mystic, Connecticut. That may be because New Hampshire's coast is only 18 miles long and remains overshadowed by the mountainous hinterland — with its beautiful but dangerous hikes and ultimate scenic drive along US-2 — that forms the popular image of "The Granite State."

That's part of why Rye is so attractive to the magnates who began arriving there in the mid-1800s and building the mansions that set the luxury bar of today. Most are private residences — such as one waterfront mansion that broke the state record when it sold for $25 million in 2023 — and make Rye the second most expensive place to live in New England and the 46^th in the country. These high-end homes follow ample precedents still on display in Rye, including the 1915 Studebaker Estate, the 1895 George L. Allen summer "cottage", and the Neo-Classical Susan Lord House, built in 1913. All set a classic New England tone that whispers luxury.

Visitors to Rye today get closest to this historical elegance at Wentworth by the Sea in New Castle, less than 10 miles from Rye. Opened in 1874, the hotel grew large and luxurious under beer baron Frank Jones, gaining its distinctive towers and mansard roof. In 1905, it hosted the Russian and Japanese delegates negotiating the end of the Russo-Japanese War. Ten years later, Annie Oakley gave shooting lessons there. The historical pedigree, along with the 18-hole golf course, clay tennis courts, and spa, make it a favorite of guests today. That's particularly true for those tying the knot, as it's one of the best places to get married in the United States.

With so much wealth comes luxury dining experiences. The Carriage House in Rye is a prime example. Its seasonal menu offers "adventurous but not pretentious" tune-ups of New England dishes, be it the lobster reduction in the gnocchi or New England oysters in the raw bar. Luxury options expand six miles away in Portsmouth. Chef Julie Cutting-Kelly, who won praise from Martha Stewart on The Food Network's "Chopped ", is at the helm of Cure, while the Botanica Restaurant and Gin Bar turns dishes French and slurs the "bon appetit" with a robust menu of fancy gin cocktails. And one steakhouse may be called Library; however, it astonishes most. Part of a 1785 mansion on the National Register of Historic buildings, the restaurant has fed seven presidents, from George Washington to John F. Kennedy.

It's nature's wealth that ultimately draws all people to Rye. With the most coastline of any New Hampshire town, it hosts two public beaches — Wallis Sands Beach and Jenness State Beach. Both feature views of the Isles of Shoals and broad stretches of sand that slope gently down the shore and mingle with the gentle incoming waves. Wallis offers a bit more action than the Jenness, including a bathhouse with outdoor rinse stations, a store selling beach necessities, and a grassy picnic area. Jenness tends to take it easier and boasts fewer amenities. Those who belong to the Rye Beach Club get the luxury of their own beach.

Rye Harbor State Park is also in Rye, situated on a rocky peninsula covered in green grass. While there's no swimming here, the park still enjoys the ocean views and hosting picnics, as well as fishing for striped bass, bluefish, and flounder. These underwater citizens of Rye get full tribute at the Seacoast Science Center, also in Rye. Part of Odiorne Point State Park, the center offers exhibitions on life in and around the ocean. Kids will particularly love the hands-on encouragement, indoor touch tanks, and live animals. Indeed, these are the luxuries that may stay in your memories most.