Is This Little-Known Hilly Region Italy's Prettiest Under-The-Radar Coastal Escape?

There were around 57.3 million visitors to Italy in 2023. While it hasn't reached the pre-pandemic height of 63.5 million in 2019, that's still a whole lot of tourists. Many will, of course, take some time to vacation in Rome with its iconic Trevi Fountain, Colosseum, and Forum, visit the incredibly well-preserved volcanic ruins of Pompeii, the fashionable Milan, or the romantic but slowly-sinking Venice. There is the Amalfi Coast, Capri, and Naples to enjoy as well, but if you're looking for something that isn't overrun by tourists, consider the region of Cilento, Italy. South of Naples, Cilento (pronounced Chee-len-to) sits in the subregion of Campania, and features places like the port city of Agropoli, the astonishing ruins of Paestum and Velia, the medieval hill town of Castellabate, complete with a castle to visit, and plenty of sandy beaches with clear water to swim in. 

There are caves and grottos to explore, and a number of places that have a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation. This is also a great family-friendly area, without the nightlife you may be used to in other cities. You can get to several towns in the region from Naples by train, but this is one of those European areas where renting a car is a good idea. The best part of all of this is that Cilento isn't a popular area among foreign tourists at all. 

No matter which part of Cilento you end up visiting first, make it a priority to eat the region's famous buffalo mozzarella and buffalo milk gelato. This is also a coastal region, so the seafood is a must as well. The coast also means beaches, and many of them in Cilento have blue flags that signify exceptionally clear and clean water. The beaches in the area are sandy, and a great one to stop at is Marina di Ascea. It's a long beach with free public areas. There are also beach clubs and a boardwalk to stroll. Palinuro is down the coast a bit and has the Grotta Azzurra, which is a blue grotto cave to visit as well as a stone arch. The largest city in the area, Agropoli (above), has a number of beaches as well, including San Marco, which has a pretty sunset view. 

Agropoli is the perfect place to wander right by the sea, and was the spot where Ancel Keys studied the healthy effects of the Mediterranean diet and why people live so long there. This is the area to have that seafood dinner. It's worth stopping at the medieval castle city (which is really a collection of towns) and UNESCO World Heritage Site of Castellabate. The castle itself, built in 1123, is in good condition and available for a tour. If you do so, make sure to stop at the belvedere for views that might let you glimpse Capri on a clear day.

Another UNESCO site is the ruins of Paestum (above). There are three well-preserved Doric temples (to Neptune, Hera, and Ceres) in this area, which hasn't even had half of the ruins excavated yet. Though you can't go inside, you can walk right up to the temples. The Hera Temple is from 550 B.C. and features an open-air altar. The Temple of Neptune is from 450 B.C. and is largely complete, and the Temple of Ceres (or possibly Athena) was built around 500 B.C. There is also a forum, a small amphitheater, and other buildings, and even some restaurants in the archaeological park if you want to sit and take a break.

You can also visit the archaeological site of Velia, founded by the Greeks in 540 B.C. near Ascea. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well. Though you may hear that it's smaller than Paestum, there are amazing things to see here like the city walls (which are 3 miles long) a huge medieval tower built over the ruins of a Greek church. Another fascinating spot is the Pertosa Caves or Grotte di Pertosa. It's a large cave that you can walk through, though part of the trip is by boat. It takes about two hours, and you should bring a jacket because it gets chilly. The best time to visit the Cilento region is between April and September, as some things close down outside of that time.