This Underrated, Beautiful Beach City In Mexico Is Like Cabo San Lucas Without Crowds

If you dream of living like an expat in Mexico for a week, a month, or a season, then an idyll in La Paz, a colonial jewel box of a city, might be for you. The capital city of Baja sits on a small bay on the Sea of Cortez, a couple hours north of the touristy crowds of Cabo. Popular among Mexican tourists, American retirees, and digital nomads, the beach town centers on graceful living, combining old-world architecture, a vibrant cultural scene, swoon-worthy seafood, and Baja's famously striking natural beauty — exactly like Cabo decades ago.

Stroll or bike down the Malecon, an esplanade lined with sea-themed public art on the beach-facing side of the street, and bars and restaurants on the other, and you'll be instantly smitten with La Paz's beachy yet urban lifestyle. In the Zona Central and neighborhoods like El Prado and San Miguel, you can shop chic boutiques, sample the burgeoning specialty coffee scene, and browse sophisticated galleries. Looking for souvenirs? Get ultra-hip tees illustrated by local artists at shops like Catku and Illustrape.

You might feel you're in a sunnier, Spanish-speaking version of trend-setting Portland, Oregon. You can while away the days seeking out little cafes where you might sit for an hour or two, finally writing the first chapter of that novel. And when you finish, you're not far from a beach full of sensuous white sand to sink your feet into.

In cooler months, half-day trips to swim with whale sharks leave right from the Malecon. These 40-foot-long creatures, the largest species of fish on earth, are so gentle and zen-like that they don't seem to mind the snorkelers circling them in awe. End your day with a sunset michelada (beer with lime, hot sauce, and a salted rim) at Estrella Del Mar, where you can sit at a table with your feet in the sand, watching the yachts bob at anchor in the harbor, hardly believing you're in the middle of a bustling, cosmopolitan city that, unlike frenetic Cabo San Lucas, hasn't really changed in years.

Visit the nearby Balandra Bay, another must-do in La Paz often cited as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, where you can wade across the shallow bay's blue-green expanse, from cove to cove — just remember to do the "stingray shuffle" so you don't step on one. The bay is calm and protected, so you won't encounter the rip tides that plague the beaches in Cabo. Daily attendance is limited, so arrive early by rental car or book a boat tour from the city, and bring snorkel gear. It's definitely worth stopping after your beach day to hike to a viewpoint to look down at the scalloped turquoise necklace of the bay.

Our favorite way to experience La Paz is to live like an expat. Book a vacation rental right in town: maybe a little thatched-roof guest house tucked behind a villa, a studio in one of the colonial buildings near the Cathedral, or a modern, high-rise condo with a sweeping view of the bay. Mix in a weekend at the almost ridiculously stunning Indigo IHG resort 20 minutes outside of the city, featuring a marina, golf course, several restaurants and pools, and a beach club with its own white sand beach where you can lounge on a chaise by an infinity pool and order elevated plates of ceviche.

To eat like a local, head off the beaten path to the best casual seafood restaurant in town, Mariscos el Toro Guero. Google Translate is your friend, though you can order just by pointing at pictures (definitely get the whole grilled octopus). Another must: the famous Baja fish taco. At Claros Fish Jr., your battered fish arrives nude on a flour tortilla, and a lavish salsa bar brimming with every Mexican condiment imaginable lets you pile your plate high. For a modern vegetarian spin on classics, like a clever, pork-free Al Pastor, visit Capuchino (look for the giant blue monkey mural). And don't hesitate to sample street tacos at a beach shack at Playa Pichilingue (pictured above). Learn what to look for to enjoy Mexican street food safely.